Bad starter?

[1Admin]

I'm not a mechanic and I didn't stay at Holiday Inn last night....

Backhoe began starting harder a few uses back- erererer vroooom. Then began getting a click every other time the key was turned, then started fine. Now 9 times out of 10 just the click.

Battery voltage is good, cables at the battery look o.k and tight, cleaned them anyways and reconnected.

Not being a mechanic, I ASSUME that the cable goes to the starter first after that? Looked like the same cable anyways. One time earlier I had to tighten that connection a bit, then it started better. Now those connections are still tight but click when key is turned.

Currently just at the click noise nothing more stage, with battery showing correct voltage and a solar charger sitting on it for a few weeks now keeping trickle charged.

Starter? What else should I check? Thanks

[Dennis W]

Put a meter on the battery, hit the start button and see how much of a drop you get.
Sometimes batteries will show the correct voltage but will not work because of an internal short or a bad cell.
If it's clicking and the battery is good (might try it while giving it a jump) it could be the solenoid. Could try jumping the solenoid.
Or if you can get to it, try jumping directly to the starter connection.
Dennis

[jimmycthemd]

First, what Dennis posted is the correct way to go. I've got a question, though and this is NOT a slam so please don't take it that way...a what if. What if the net was not available? The ability to fix/jerry rig things is extremely valuable (almost to the point of being a necessity). There are two things I buy when I buy a vehicle (and a tractor is a vehicle). A maintenance manual and a chassis manual. Some folks buy the maintenance manual but neglect the chassis manual...it has the detailed chassis wiring diagram, etc..

Again, please don't take this as a criticism, just a suggestion for future self-sufficiency.

[Rmplstlskn]

A clicking repetitively, quickly usually means low amperage and it can't spin starter motor.... Volts may show 12-13v but still bad battery, as Dennis said.

Use truck and jumper cables to test. If it starts, bad battery. Still clicks, bad starter.

Rmpl

[tech]

Good replies, but before you throw a starter on it, check the voltage at the starter terminal when cranking. It is going to be a little lower than battery voltage, but if you're dropping more than 2 volts, check your grounds and cables. They may look good, but "looks ain't everything." Take them off, clean them, LISTEN to them...if they make crunchy noises when you bend them, they are toast.

[1Admin]

Yeah I have the six inch thick manual for it. More exploded parts diagrams than troubleshooting stuff. I've helped replace parts in the axle of that same model with that manual, but no trouble shooting. Actually I do have a more basic small manual, I'll dig that out also, but it's more of an operators manual.

Voltage dropped to 11.7'ish when I turned the key. It's clicks ONCE, not "click click click" like you see in a car with a battery that's going to hell.

I'm going over there again this weekend and I'll jump it and see if that works. The battery does not have the date stamp on it.

Use truck and jumper cables to test. If it starts, bad battery. Still clicks, bad starter.

Thank you all, that's kinda what I figured, but when your not super experienced with something, you seek advice if you still can.

[1Admin]

Put a meter on the battery, hit the start button and see how much of a drop you get.
Sometimes batteries will show the correct voltage but will not work because of an internal short or a bad cell.
If it's clicking and the battery is good (might try it while giving it a jump) it could be the solenoid. Could try jumping the solenoid.
Or if you can get to it, try jumping directly to the starter connection.
Dennis

So essentially jumper cables to corresponding connections on starter and then turn key correct?

[protus]

Yes.
Your basically bypassing the battery..but connecting directly to the starter solenoid.
On our older cough classic cars back in the day. Youd have battery..solenoid..then starter (Ford). The one tractor I worked on ...some foreign thing was set up like that where the solenoid was separate from the starter . Rest have been on the starter.

Trace your connections...check..test..clean.. them go down the line testing draw...and bypass via cables as already posted.

[1Admin]

I replaced the battery today and further trimmed one of the cables that looked a bit rough. It's not the battery and cables, I've narrowed that down. Still the same click. Will be over there again soon and will try some of this other stuff.

[Rmplstlskn]

Just recently replaced a starter on my lawn tractor. The magnet inside came loose from inside casing and was caught on spinning armature, essentially would not spin (start). Local equipment shops wanted $140 for generic starter. Bought new starter from China through eBay for $45 and starts as normal now... Same generics as local shop.... I am for supporting local shops and would have paid $75 locally, but locals had to way over markup their china crap. I doubt I will be back to them and will rather continue online purchases... I guess they will wait for their next $ucker, as I am not it...

Rmpl

[1Admin]

I took the starter off and had it rebuilt and it starts smooth now.

I heard taping on the starter with a hammer while turning the key can sometimes "free" them up. It worked with another piece of equipment recently.