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  • Transition drill

    Still kind of gimping around but able to walk just not do anything dynamic yet.

    Working with the boy today on the range. Refreshed transition from rifle to pistol drills.

    Worked from on a tactical sling and loose, principally focusing on the swipe away method on sling and the tuck and move un-slung.

    He enjoys a slight competition and I had already put a battery in the shot timer. He's getting into that teenage stage wherein he's "competing" with Dad on stuff but rarely coming up ahead unless it's stuff like Plane Geometry Honors class (his current math class). I have little use for higher maths like that and tease him that I "did that crap in the third grade" LOL. In reality I have no idea WTH they are talking about when I sit in on classes!!! LOL He knows that but humors the old man. :)

    So he was in MY realm today, not the realm of a mathlete :) He might be an up and coming athlete on certain combative sports, but Dad is still ahead ;)

    We used the shot timer on a rifle to pistol transition drill- there was two rounds in each rifle mags and you had to shoot till it clicked so as to not "game it." Upon hearing the click being that we were at short range (20 yards), you had to transition to pistol and make 2 good pistol shots also.

    He did pretty well, averaging a little over 4 seconds on a couple rotations, with one rotation in the high 3 second range. His "old" man was consistently under 3 seconds however, with slightly better hits.

    We were shooting IDPA silhouettes today and I set up the classic "hostage" target with only the head showing on the "bad guy." We worked that sort of drill a couple times including some work on visualization. It helped him slow down his rate of fire, he gets good hits when shooting fast, but not accurate enough for that type of shooting. After some correction, he went to hitting 95% head shots in a short period of time. He's stubborn, gets that from HIS MOM and all ;) but he also knows pops knows his crap and to improve listen to Pops, so that's good. I find myself shooting less and teaching more lately, but the ammo bill seems to be about the same...... But it's an investment.

    Worked a lot of left handed stuff today also. I explained to him that few shooters truly develop ambidextrous skills. He hadn't done that in a while so it was kind of new in that regard. The AK actually handles very easily left handed, but you have to develop some skill as for more people your left hand side is "dumb" compared to follow through, trigger squeeze etc. that's developed on the rifle hand side. So I loaded mags with 8, 7, 10, whatever so he had to work more mag changes via the left side and wouldn't "game" any of the drills we were working on.

    We must have had some crazy flooding at the range. A 30+ lb. tote with range supplies was displaced almost 300 yards from it's original location with all sorts of targets and a couple of plastic culverts that were not yet installed. How the heck the 30+ lb. tote floated that far is beyond me, but I'm glad we found it.
    www.homesteadingandsurvival.com

    www.survivalreportpodcast.com

    "Don't be too proud of this technological terror you've constructed..."

  • #2
    Originally posted by Lowdown3 View Post
    We must have had some crazy flooding at the range. A 30+ lb. tote with range supplies was displaced almost 300 yards from it's original location with all sorts of targets and a couple of plastic culverts that were not yet installed. How the heck the 30+ lb. tote floated that far is beyond me, but I'm glad we found it.
    That is a lot of water...

    Rmpl
    -=> Rmplstlskn <=-

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    • #3
      LD, I enjoy the training reports of you with your son and have to say I'm envious.

      Do you have any steel targets on your range? I'm thinking of getting a couple for the range I'm building. The furthest I will be able to shoot will be about 100-120 meters and to do that I'm going to have to cut a couple trees.

      I'm also looking for plans to build some target stands. Any advice would be appreciated.
      http://theoldtimeway.blogspot.com/

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      • #4
        Yes we have steel targets also- 3 full size IDPA silhouettes, a 2/3 and a half size of the same, couple pepper poppers then some pistol only steel plates.

        Most are 6-10 years old and have a lot of rounds on them but are still holding up good. The occasional flipping of the plate, shooting the rust off then hitting the plate with Rustoleum paint has been about all the PM they have had. The bolts they hang on are replaced pretty frequently and we keep a bag of them at the range.

        I'll try to take some pics of some of the individual target stands but they are all pretty simple affairs.

        At the main "pit" area we have 4x4s holding up 2x4 stringers spaced to accommodate a standard IPSC size silhouette target. If you place the height correctly you will be stapling in to just the head and near the bottom. This means the 2x4 won't be shot up as fast and won't need replacement as quickly. We have the 4x4s every 8 feet so if we ever want to hang any standard size sheeting on there, it will fit also. I think right now there is only 24 linear feet of target space as the rest of the pit is open for movable targets, poppers, etc. I'm going to dig that part out further to use the fill around other parts of the range, so I'm trying to keep that open.

        As to individual single cardboard or paper target stands- easiest design I've seen/used is a base that roughly resembles an "H" shape. Use heavier wood for this part- 2x6 as a minimum. You can nail or screw this part together. This part of the frame won't be shot (or should rarely be shot), so using the more expensive wood there is your best bet as you won't have to replace that as much.

        Now on the center section of the "H" shape- you want that to roughly correspond to whatever width of target you will be using. Then you will put in uprights and these can be whatever scrap you happen to have. Some use furing strips the entire way up, but they aren't very wide and have a tendency to break off very easily. I like to go with a 1x4 as the smallest board to use. Figure the height you want to screw the verticals into the center of the "H". 2x4s work well for the verticals also, and allow easier movement of the target stands. The verticals are usually best screwed into the center board of the "H." Then just staple the cardboard or paper target onto the verticals. Since there is no shooting surface for the boards other than a thin section on the sides, the verticals tend to last a good while also.

        The same plan can be used for individual steel targets, but use a wider "H" base as the steels can get a rocking when hits multiple times in succession. And obviously the verticals should be more stout and you'll need a cross piece set on it's side to bore a hole into to hang the steel off of.

        IME the steels can take a boatload of abuse, but it's normally the apparatus that holds the steels that gives out first. Avoid chains to hang them, they typically get shot quickly and then your target flops to the ground. A new bolt can be replaced in half a minute versus welding chains to targets and various other contraptions. The holding apparatus WILL fail at some point, count on it.

        I'll try to get a pic of the individual target stands if this doesn't make sense.
        www.homesteadingandsurvival.com

        www.survivalreportpodcast.com

        "Don't be too proud of this technological terror you've constructed..."

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