Any thoughts or experience with longer term storage of dog food (kibble)? Shelf life, etc?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Dog food storage?
Collapse
X
-
Naw I perfer to eat mine fresh. Oh wait that was the other conversation LOL
for a product
there are about 100 of them products out there. I have seen nothing on freeze dried 15yr storage stuff or anything like that. It seems like anthing over 6mths to a year ole roy is sucking wind.Knowledge is Power, Practiced Knowledge is Strength, Tested Knowledge is Confidence
-
-
Don't forget, dogs are actually carnivores that we force (through our laziness or our frugalness) to be omnivores...
One food supply for your pet pooch would be "Break-In" burgers... where I plan to use all available resources to survive, even if that is a chunk of thigh muscle, from the perp that tried to enter my domicile, to feed my pet pooch. :) ;)
Twisted? Maybe, but it will keep my pooch healthier than you keep forcing him to eat corn... :)
Comment
-
We get 2-3 years out of Ole Roy poured into barrels. The top 1" or so will get WHITE as the fats go rancid or it gets oxidized (not sure what exactly causes it). But you can skim that off, toss it in the pond for the fish and feed the rest to the pups.
We've been doing it this way since 04 without any problems. Time to rotate some now come to think of it.
Other than the wet slop in cans, that's the best I've come up with. No sense in packing in mylar due to the short rotation needed.www.homesteadingandsurvival.com
www.survivalreportpodcast.com
"Don't be too proud of this technological terror you've constructed..."
Comment
-
thanks all. @ Matt, this is what I was looking for exactly. I wanted something that would solve real-time practical problems (bags are a pain) and also something that might allow longer term storage and rotation than standard "civilian" thinking.
For all, your concerns about rancidity are valid. When i said longer-term, i meant more like keeping 6-months or mabe up to a year, for the intial stages or for shorter-term hunker-down situations. In a longer term scenario, heaven forbid it could come down to eating the dog (see One Second After -- would have done it much sooner).
Thanks Lowdown on giving me a heads up for what to expect with the top layer and what to do with it.
Comment
-
This is old post from the original Survival Forum, by 230gr.
Post EOTWAWKI Dog Food
Dry dog foods will go rancid because of it fat content. If you would place them in metal foil Mylar bags with oxygen absorbers, they should be good for 5 years or longer at 70F but eventually your supply will run out. In a post EOTWAWKI situation, where meat will be scarce and table scraps, possibly, scarcer, you may need to make your own fog food based on Vegetarian dog foods recipes.
Remember that dogs have a shorter digestive tract than humans, and may not cope so well with large quantities of fibrous foods. However, they do need their share of roughage (vegetables, bran, whole grain cereals, raw fruit). Cooking fibrous vegetables (such as carrot, cauliflower, cabbage and cauliflower) (15 minutes at boiling) breaks down the fibers, reducing the roughage value and making them more digestible but too much cooking destroys some vitamins, especially thiamine. Crude fiber fills the gut to reduce feelings of hunger, and stimulates defecation, so some grated or chopped raw vegetables are useful in the diet. Boiling soybean meal, ground corn, rice, wheat meal, potatoes and peas also makes them more readily digestible for dogs. Note: No onions should b fed to dogs.
Protein
Best sources: soy beans, pulses (lentils, beans, split peas), whole grain cereals, sunflower seeds, nuts (except chestnuts). A good balance of amino acids can be achieved by feeding pulses and cereals together at one meal.
Fats and Oils
Oily Seed and Nuts, especially sunflower seed, corn , linseed, & soy beans.
Carbohydrates
Cereals, chestnuts, pulses, pears, dried fruit (not raisins), potatoes (The starch in potatoes can cause diarrhoea in some dogs). Carbohydrates are unlikely to be in short supply in the average varied diet.
Vitamins
Vitamin A: (as the precursor carotene) - carrots and green vegetables (In dogs, carotene has about half the nutritional value of actual vitamin A).
Vitamin D: (As its precursor, which is converted by sunlight on the animal's skin to vitamin D) - green leafy vegetables, cereal germ, yeast.
Vitamin E: green leafy vegetables eg cabbage, spinach, curly kale, lettuce.
Vitamin K: Green leafy vegetables.
B-complex vitamins: Yeast, whole cereals, various vegetables, nuts. Easily destroyed by cooking.
Vitamin C: Fresh sprouts, curly kale, blackcurrants, rose hip, cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage,
Note: Vitamin C is not normally essential for dogs as they synthesize their own. However, some researchers suggest that vitamin C synthesis in dogs may be inadequate on a low protein diet.
Minerals
Calcium: Good source: powered egg shells. Fair: cu***bers, beans, kale, lettuce, cauliflower, endive,
Phytic acid in wheat may also reduce calcium absorption. Soaking grains overnight is believed to activate enzymes which break down the phytic acid. Vitamin D is essential for calcium absorption.
Iron: spinach, various fruits, vegetables, nuts, whole cereals.
Iodine: whole grain rye and wheat, lettuce.
Animal offal should be added to the foods diet when available. To increase digestibility and protect from diseases, intestines, fish & bird heads, and even raw skins can be boiled until the small bones soften and tendons mush before feeding it to your animals. Use it to flavor you usual cereal and vegetable rations. If you have more used cooking grease than you need for soap, add that too in small amounts.
Since your dog has been brought up on a high meat diet, the changeover to a vegetarian diet should be done as gradually as possible.
Comment
Comment