Try Montana (Milk River Valley), Eastern Oregon (Burns), Idaho (Lost River / Challis), Eastern Oregon / Idaho (Treasure Valley). Rural land values have decreased about 20% from the 2007 peak.
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Good question...and let’s go with no budget for starters.
I would have to say the basic layout is the first important factor. I think anonymity would be first up. Secluded and out of sight, but still easy to reach by vehicle. Surrounded by forests would be ideal. Defendable, but with easy egress routes if it came down to it. Not within a flood plain. Natural firebreaks would be an important factor to consider as well.
100-250 acres preferred (if we are dreaming). 25-75 of that would be pasture capable land (for livestock, depending on numbers) and the rest having wooded areas. Gardens can be dug on the pasture land. Wooded areas provide alternate forms of heating and additional building materials.
Running source of water additionally with a large pond or small lake. Pond can be used for watering livestock and/or fish, simple aqueduct systems from the creek/stream can be used for watering crops. If we are dreaming, a small dam built in the stream to make your pond and provide hydraulic pressure to the aqueduct system.
Has to have a well. Maybe two wells, one deep running on a pump and one shallow not requiring an electrical pump. (Hey we're dreaming right now...)
Cistern for collecting water from above wells.
Orchard of mixed fruit trees and nut trees. Fruit trees will attract game and nut trees will attract squirrels, both long term sources of meat. Additionally, bees will be attracted to blossoms on the trees, making the potential for beekeeping within reason.
Fencing…on keeping with the secluded and out of sight idea, a natural “fence” would be nice to have. Brambles and thickets of thorns and small scrub trees would be ideal with potential for stopping or slowing intruders. However, as with defensive plans, small escape routes in those areas would be ideal as well. Natural barriers such as swift moving, large creeks and rivers would be ideal as well. Low key is a factor and nothing screams out civilization more than barbed wire or a chain link fence. However, double edged sword since you need a way of keeping your hypothetical livestock inside a certain area.
Housing will be entirely dependent on how many will be staying there, local environmental conditions, local threats and how many supplies are on hand.
On a budget…
5-10 acres is doable. 1 acre cleared with good soils for crops. Remainder is wooded or semi-cleared. Well water with cistern. Running water source would be nice to have. Bordering on a National Forest or BLM property would be nice. Small orchard and nut trees could be planted over the long run. Storage space of additional outbuildings like barns and coops can be built on a budget and won’t take up major real estate. Natural fencing as described above can be planted and over the long run become productive.Experience is a cruel teacher, gives the exam first and then the lesson.
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Doing the dream as we speak. My parents and I split 17 acres. Both our families are going to build our homesteads there. Two houses, two garages, a barn etc.
For strong walls at an affordable price we are going with Chordwood Masonry. Never heard of it, do a google search, it's cool. Our walls will be made of 16" logs stacked like fire wood. They will be cemented together with two 4" rows of mortar with a spacing between each log of 3/4". These wall will be bullet proof. I'm a contractor by trade, and for me to build the exterior walls conventionally would cost around $7,000-$8000. I have to ship my logs across the country as the property is over 15,000 miles away. The cost of the logs was minimal, maybe $400.00. Shipping will be around $2,000 so that's still a savings of over $5,000.00! Chordwood masonry is a bit labor intensive, but for those of us on a VERY tight budget, it's a very sound option.
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A very small one room log structure built by myself with the handtools I have cached. Above 10,000 feet on moderatly steep ground with emphasis on concealment from aerial observation. I do need to get the stove up there before TSHTF.
As far as I'm concerned I own several thousand acres of pristine wilderness with more than I'll need already up there.
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@Davar: nothing is bulletproof, just need a bigger gun ;)
I do like the Chordwood Masonry, the ones I researched incorporated glass bottles as ways to allow natural light inside. But not too sure about the insulation level of having glass bottles like that.
Also, saw one where they did the mortar like you stated, one row interior side and one row exterior side, and they filled the void in the middle with sawdust. I am thinking this would be an inexpensive way to insulate it????
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Klayton, yeah I know that there's always a "bigger gun". However, most calibers would bot penatrate a 16 log. Compare that to most modern houses, there's no cover behind siding, OSB, insulation and drywall!!
Yeah I am filling the voidbetween the mortar with sawdust and a little lime to keep away rot and insect damage. A 16" wall with sawdust insulation has an R value of R19-21. Considering that most houses have R19 in the walls, it's A okay by me!Last edited by Davar; 12-06-2010, 09:03 PM.
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