Chainsaw logistics

[1Admin]

Other than the obvious- spare chains, fuel and mix, air filter, spark plugs, etc.

What PARTS are likely to break on a chainsaw over the long term? Specifically a Stihl 290 Farm boss.

Been running these now for about 6 years and have not had any failures.

Have two for the purposes of scavenging parts if need be, but am also stocking spare parts.

Do my own basic maintenance on these, but that's about it, not a mechanic. Lots of mechanical types in the family so my best option is to have the spares, experiment a bit myself, have them show me some things and go from there.

What all should I add to the stocks?

[rice paddy daddy]

Ethanol is really hard on plastic fuel lines. I keep a few extra feet of line in the shed.
I have also found a source for non-ethanol gasoline that I have begun to use for my generator and yard equipment. It runs 60 cents a gallon more than E-10, but it is better on the equipment and does not start to degrade after 30 days.
Years ago I bought a gallon jug of bar oil, and still have a lot left.
You should also keep an extra bar along with the extra chains. The sprocket on the tip will always fail at the most inconvienient time.
I wore out a Poulan saw, and now have a Husky.
Are you familiar with Bailey's? They are a good online source for parts, equipment, gear, tools etc. They service us weekend warriors and ful time pro lumberjacks as well.
go to baileysonline.com
Once you buy from them you will get regular catalogs in the mail.

[1Admin]

Thanks. Definitely need a few fuel lines. Knock wood, haven't had any fuel issues. All of our cans have a bit of PRI-G added prior to re filling, that might be why we haven't had any fuel issues. I don't think we have any fuel, save what's in a couple of the vehicles, that's less than 6 months or a year old.

Plenty of spare chains, plugs, air filters, files, bar oil and mix.

Some of the bigger components I've put back: Piston, Intake, oil line, oil pump, pull start assembly, muffler, crank bearing, clutch drum, gas lines, ignition module, might be a few other items in the whirlpool...

[Grand58742]

Having used one a lot lately...

Bar oil goes a lot quicker when you are using it. I've gone through almost a quart in the past few times, but the Husky tends to eat it pretty quick as it is. Having said that, lots of folks run old motor oil through it without any problems save the occasional cleaning. So if you do an oil change on your own and have nothing else to do with your used oil. Presto, bar oil and a lot of it. Couple of oil changes later and you're pretty much set for life.

Depending on your bar length a spare 16 inch bar and chain can come in handy if you already have the 20 installed. Or the 20 if you have the 16. Shorter chain, more torque and easier to get into some places when trying to dig out broken branches and whatnot. Longer bar for heavy stuff.

Like RPD I tend to use 100% gas in mine, but it's way cheaper out here than it is where he's at. While most saws designed these days can use the 10% ethanol grades, I just eliminate that as a possibility and go straight gas.

The tip sprocket can break when you don't want it to. Replacement bar is the general rule when one breaks. Also, had an issue on Saturday of the chain seizing up and wouldn't budge. Found out the sprocket had gotten jammed up from some of the wood chips that had worked their way in. Took a few minutes to get it cleared, but also (should have) had one of these (that happened to be in my basement lol) that should have helped keep it running smoothly. I wisely put it back into my work bag for the next time. Bar oil works in a cinch to help keep the sprocket rolling right, but the grease works like a champ.

Fuel lines can corrode over time and having a couple of feet of spare gas line won't break the bank.

The starter pull rope replacements can be had fairly cheap. However, have seen 550 cord used with no problems as well. Save a buck or two.

This site is pretty informative of problems people face with all models of chain saws and the Farm Boss has a couple of threads:

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/

Those guys are fanatics and take their saws seriously.

Seems like you've got a pretty good start on spare parts. Only glaring thing I saw that wasn't on your list were bar mount studs and spare nuts. Can't have enough around (which reminds me to pick up my own lol)

ETA: Some good wedges. Not those cheap plastic felling things you get from Lowes or Home Depot, but an all steel, honest to God wedge that can help you get your saw out of a bind. Had more than once we had to dig out a saw this past weekend by splitting the log apart with a good wedge. Harbor Freight has them for about $10 a piece and having one or two of the standard wedges and a diamond wedges around won't hurt.

[motesjm]

It's crazy, the the thing I break most on my Stilhs are those new fangled twist lock gas and bar oil reservoir caps. I've put back several. Why they thought that was an improvement on the threaded caps is beyond me.

[All Talk]

I have a farm boss 290, I go through chain and bar oil a lot quicker rice paddy daddy does!

several extra chains for post shtf -- you can sharpen a chain but you'll never get it as sharp as a new one. I'll go through several sharpeening cycles and when I finally decide to replace the chain I'm like "wow! this is great!"

besides the bar sprocket, I've had the bar get bent when I foolishly got it pinched while trying to fell a rather large tree.

Also, get and use those kevlar chaps! I could tell you a story....

[Lowdown3]

Use the kevlar chaps regularly. Was cutting last fall with a relative and him being a smart a## said "nice chaps, hahaha" I said make funny of me but when all my parts below the waist are still working and yours aren't, then I'll be laughing.

Bent a bar, actually the pic is somewhere here on the site. Too calorie depleted that day, too tired, TOO STUPID feeling to use a chainsaw.... Thankfully all it cost me was a new bar....

The plastic wedges are da bomb. I do a lot of under cut/ make a notch and knock it out type deals, then cut down towards the notch type things. The wedges have saved me from trees going back the other way (even with a hard angle on the felling cut) more than a few times.

Surfing Ebay the other night I added bar studs and extra nuts.

When money is flowing decent, I usually use a new chain till it starts dulling, then file it once myself, then switch to a new chain and bring the first one to a saw shop and have it professionally sharpened then put it away in long term logistics. Rarely have I really ran down a chain this way and it's a nice way to put up a pile of extra chains. Usually try to keep at least half dozen or so new in box chains that are never touched.

When money is tight, I use the chains longer, have them professionally sharped about every 3 sharpening, etc.

Being largely a mechanical retard...... do you just wind the 550 cord around the starter assembly if the OEM cord breaks?

[Matt In Oklahoma]

is it like this?

[WiseOwl]

Matt that pic is funny as crap.

My buddy is a small engine guy
He regularly talks folks out of their "broken" chainsaws and fixes them up and resales.
I know for a fact he keeps chains, plenty of files , tons of fuel line, but also a few carbs and some "make a gasket".
Also like grand said the paracord works great.

But if there is any one part on a saw that goes bad this dude has one.


He is the Craigslist chainsaw destroyer

[Lowdown3]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qvcCh2XqEPc

A Stihl video showing proper sharpening of chainsaw blades.

I'm not big into "kits" but most Stihl dealers have a little kit in a roll up pouch that has files, the guide, depth gauges, etc. It's handy to take into the field with you working.

[Lowdown3]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kLW9QrPnVzg

Here's another good one on bar maintenance.

[daz]

As far as spares, might want to include a clutch a clutch bearing or 2 and if the sprocket isn't built into the clutch shell a few of sprockets in your spares list also.

I don't know that old chains cut any worse than new ones if sharpened properly. But sharpening by hand is a real skill, and I am by no means a expert. Also most of you may know, but for those who do not, in front of the tooth on a chain is a metal tab known as a rider. The job of a rider is to keep the tooth from cutting to deep and stalling the chain. but since the teeth slope back as you continue to sharpen them they in effect become progressively lower. And so if you do not occasionally file the riders down, after a while it doesn't mater how sharp your chain is, it will not cut. On the other hand, if you file the riders to far down, you will have a hard time because it will want to cut to deep, and it will be a constant battle to keep the chain from stopping. They do make gauges for filing riders, and you use a flat file. But if you do not have a gauge, and you have a sharp chain that will not cut, just take a stoke or 2 on every rider and try it. If it still will not cut try another stroke or 2. But make sure you file the right and left side evenly. The goal is to have the saw cut with very little down pressure and the engine neither racing or lugging.

Most timber fallers take 3 or 4 chains with them when they go to work. As one gets dull the just put sharp one on. Then they will sharpen them at night. They use them till the are ground down so far the teeth start breaking off. Of course they always use electric grinders. But even filing by hand, I find it a lot easier to do a good job filing with my saw clamped by the bar in the vise at the shop than propped up on a log or on the tail gate.

Lastly, for what it is worth, we never use bar oil. Instead we use used motor oil. Dad has logged full time for the last 50 years, and that is what he has always used

[1Admin]

Lastly, for what it is worth, we never use bar oil. Instead we use used motor oil. Dad has logged full time for the last 50 years, and that is what he has always used

Because of cost or convenience or something else? TIA

What do folks think of these portable 12 volt sharpeners? I bought one on a whim stocking up at an Ace one day, but haven't tried it yet. Guess I just like the control of the file and gauge.

The bar nuts are another no brainer to have a boatload of, they just end up lost sometimes if you are using them a lot. You "can" use a saw with just one bar nut, but it will shake like mad if the nut isn't crazy tight.

Another little tip is to use a black magic marker and mark the approximate firewood length on your blade.

We have three stoves, one of which I've been cutting for for 14 years now, the other stove will accept longer wood, the 3rd stove only shorter wood. I marked my bar with the length of the shortest length.

This way you don't end up with a bunch of wood drug into the house after a couple years seasoning that just a tid bit too long.

[daz]

[QUOTE]

Because of cost or convenience or something else? TIA

Another little tip is to use a black magic marker and mark the approximate firewood length on your blade.

For the current times, both cost ( used oil is generally free ) and convenience. When we change oil in one of our rigs we save the containers the oil came in. Then we store the used oil in the same containers.

For the future, it is easy enough to stock up on used oil, and if things go south and you didn't stock up, used oil would probably still be readily livable.

On fire wood length, my Grandfather used to be fanatical. He had a marking stick and us kids would go along with the stick and a axe marking the whole log at each cut. The marker idea is good. Nothing worse than trying to get a log in the stove that is 1" to long and starting to burn!

[Matt In Oklahoma]

Because of cost or convenience or something else? TIA

Bar oil is nothing more than rough grade 30 weight and it does nothing but lube aka leak onto the bar so used oil works great, used it for years