Optic sale

[protus]

Just a quick heads up.
primary arms has thier 2.5 slx with bdc reticle for 99$.
I missed it but during placement but you can pick to have glint covers added for free.
free shipping as well.
Figured it be something new to try. As my eyes get older.

[1Admin]

It looks like a good buy. I didn't even really need one... but bought one. It's at the PO so I'll pick it up next week and maybe have time to work with it soon.

$99. for any magnified combat optic is a helluva deal IMO. And I've had great luck with Primary Arms optics.

[protus]

Mine got in over the weekend.
it's a tank. Think irrc is 14oz.
Easy to use controls. I like the fact it's etched. No Batts no problem.
i expected the reticle to be larger. Its a lil busy at that size. But after reading the manual it made sense, a basic chevron with bdc dots would be more my liking. But again 99$ . So who cares.
glass is super clear.
Think itll do well on my back up AR...or get dropped on my primary vs a basic rds.

[1Admin]

Heads up for those that bought these.



I had the chance to get to the range yesterday. Mounted this one on an AK74 that had previously had a Trijicon MRO on it. Wanted to have the magnification there that isn't available on the MRO.

I always start to zero at 25 yards before moving out to 100 yards. First 3 shots at 25 yards was on a small paper pie plate. Alright great I think and move on to 100 with it. I was checking the zero of two other rifles at the same time- the rifle I moved that MRO to, and I changed an variable optic to a Unity high mount on a BCM AR15. I finished up with the other rifles and set up at 100.

The rounds from the above rifle with the Primary arms optic were all over the place- a huge difference from the all on a pie plate group previously. I did the rounds going back and forth between shooting position and target twice making adjustments then noticed the optic was visibly moving in the mount. I didn't keep an actual count, but I typically fire 3 times to establish a group when zeroing, and I know I wasn't more than 3-4 times into it. So in maybe 12 rounds the mount had come greatly loosened from the optic.

I usually lock down and loc tite all my mounts and optics after zeroing. Never had one that started to come apart during the zero process however.

Got home, removed it from the Ultimak mount on the rifle. The screws holding the PA mount to the optic weren't even finger tight by this point- with only 10 to 12 rounds fired at best.



Flipped it over, backed each screw out individually, smeared loc tite in the hole like mad then immediately put the screw back in. Then went around the top again with loc tite. Did the same for the other side also.

Never had to do this BEFORE I could zero a rifle, always locked them down tight and loc tite'd them after.

Watch for this if you bought this optic. Mine might have been a fluke, but it's good procedure to lock this down anyway. Next range trip I'll get it zeroed.

[1Admin]

Got a chance to hit the range yesterday and confirmed zero on this new optic.

Mount seemed to remain tight on the optic and on the Ultimak rail.

[protus]

Sorry been busy ( family death).
I read a few had issues similar because the set screws between the two styles of mount aren't lock tighted.
also. I read the destruction manual and it gives specifics how to zero vs what I've done on other rifles. I assume this is to keep the bdc in check.
I've debated on dropping a Midwest or ultimak on my one AK for this...or just buy another upper for one of my " poodle shooters" .

[1Admin]

I need to shoot it more, but I put about 100 rounds 5.45 through it on a Krink after locking down the mount and it seemed ok.

Problem is 5.45 is damn near non existent now so while it's one of the funner guns to shoot, I'm watching the stock of it and thinking will I be able to replace and how damn much???